The best beard style is one that complements your natural facial structure. The goal is to create the appearance of an oval face shape, which is considered the most balanced and proportional. Different beard styles can add or subtract visual length and width.
First, Find Your Face Shape
- Forehead: measure across the widest point
- Cheekbones: measure from the top of one cheekbone to the other
- Jawline: measure from the tip of your chin to below your ear, then double it
- Face length: measure from the center of your hairline straight down to your chin
Compare the numbers. Roughly equal width and length with a soft, curved jaw points to round. A strong, straight jaw with similar width and length reads square. Length clearly greater than width, with a balanced taper, is oval. A face noticeably longer than it is wide is oblong. Close call? Trust the jaw; its angle tells you more than the ruler does.
Every recommendation below follows one rule: a beard adds where a face is short, and shows restraint where a face is long.
Oval Face
- Lucky — almost every beard style works well
- Best options: Full beard, short boxed beard, stubble, circle beard
- Tip: Experiment freely — you have the most flexibility
Round Face
Goal: Add length and reduce width
- Best options: Full beard kept short on the sides and longer at the chin
- Avoid: Round styles, short boxed beards that emphasize cheek width
Square Face
Goal: Soften the jawline and add length
- Best options: Rounded beard styles, circle beard, full beard with rounded bottom
- Avoid: Sharp, square-shaped beards that exaggerate an already angular jaw
Oblong / Long Face
Goal: Add width and reduce apparent length
- Best options: Full beard kept full on the sides, mutton chops, wide goatee
- Avoid: Long, pointed beards that elongate the face further
Triangle / Pear-Shaped Face
- Goal: Add fullness to the upper face and minimize the chin/jaw area
- Best options: Short beard with fuller sides, mutton chops
- Avoid: Styles that are very heavy at the chin
Diamond Face
- Goal: Add chin fullness while keeping temples trim
- Best options: Goatee, chin beard, short full beard
Hold the Shape
Knowing your shape is half the ritual; holding it is the other half. Towel your beard until it is just barely damp, work a few drops of beard oil through the hair to soften it, then set the shape with a small amount of beard balm for medium hold. Comb it into place with The Conjurer's Pick.
Thalidor's Teaching
When in doubt, visit a skilled barber who specializes in beards. A single consultation can save months of trial and error.
Short Beard vs Long Beard Care